The write-up on Agra will complete my blogging on the Golden Tourist Triangle of India, with Jaipur and Delhi already on the blog. Agra, 200 Km from Delhi, is an ancient city, mentioned in Mahabharata which gained significance during the reign of the Mughal Empire. It was, first the capital to Sikander Lodi in 1501. It became the capital of Mughal Empire after Babur defeated Lodi. It prospered with time and was quite popular during Akbar’s reign and was known as Akbarabad. Aurangzeb shifted his capital to Delhi and further development of the city stopped for a while. Later in 19th C British ruled over Agra. A visit only to Agra without one to Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandara is incomplete as all these three places inherited the best of Islamic architecture simultaneously.
Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Sikandara
As mentioned in my post earlier, after spending two days in Delhi, we proceeded towards Agra to see the city of Taj Mahal. Agra is very well connected to Delhi, there are frequent trains, some Agra-Delhi specials and if you intend to go by a car/bus, the road is in pretty good condition.
We chose to go by the morning Agra-Delhi Shatabadi Express as we wanted to start sight-seeing at the earliest possible and save time we would have spent in a restaurant to have break-fast by eating on the the train itself. But they say, ` man proposes, God disposes’, all our plans went kaput after our arrival in Agra, as we faced the heaviest rains of the season. We rescheduled our itinerary and decided to go to Fatehpur Sikri first lest we got stuck in the rain the next day and missed our train back to Delhi. The decision proved unwise again, because there was a political rally going on at the main city square and the access to area was closed off and there was no other way anyone could get out of Agra without listening to the dear politician. All roads going to the outer of the city, radiated from this square and the area was cordoned off from all sides. The driver tried different smaller roads and short-cuts to touch Fatehpur road, but all these roads were flooded with waist deep water. Some vehicle drivers were bold enough to tread in deep waters and were able to reach the other end. We found our driver to be less adventurous as he kept on trying all possible outlets but in vain. Time was precious to us and we had to make a decision- either to go ahead with the risk of getting marooned or return to the hotel and sulk at leisure in the company of abundantly available Agra Petha and Daal-moth. We had made up our mind, but the driver was not convinced. After a little challenging and encouraging we succeeded in making him take one of the dreaded paths. After half an hour of his manoeuvres, with our fingers crossed and fervent prayers to God for our safety and lots of 4-lettered words for the politician for holding people to ransom like this, we reached a clearer road to Fatehpur. The rest of the total of 37Km from Agra, the journey was quite comfortable.
Fatehpur Sikri
It is said that Akbar first came to Sikri for blessings from a Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chisti for the birth of an heir. Soon after the blessings, Akbar’s wife Rani Jodha Bai gave birth to Salim who ruled later as Emperor Jahangir. In gratitude, Akbar built imperial structures in Sikri. Set on a rocky ridge, this was the first planned Indo-Islamic city and was named as Fatehpur Sikri. But the city had to be abandoned after 14 years only in favour of Delhi due to water scarcity. It has royal palaces, harems, mosques and public- gathering places built mostly in red sandstone. The emperor built an artificial lake to block one side of the city and walls were built on the other three sides.
It is said to be built on a perfect mathematical grid with prayer areas at the top, palaces on a plateau on the hill and a very high `Buland Darwaza’ to address the people from the town below.
Akbar’s ideology of fusion of religions is obvious in every aspect of his life, whether marrying three women, Jodha Bai, Sultana and Mariam, from different religions, or encouraging architects and masons from different cultures which is obvious by the presence of Hindu, Islamic and Persian inscriptions and motifs on the buildings, or the use of pivots in stone in construction, the style commonly used by Hindus and Jains in temples. Invariably there would always be a temple on the palace compound for a Hindu queen to offer prayers.
The sight-seeing-
Private or outside vehicles are not allowed to go beyond the guide centre, some 500 meters before the site. At this point, one can hire a guide on foot or one can opt to save energy and time and hire a three-wheeler with a driver-cum-guide to take one around. We were three and this arrangement suited us most. There are no fixed rates displayed there and the charges can be haggled up to 40% of the quoted price. In addition, there is an entry fee of rupees twenty p/p
The palace Quarters—
We entered the city through Agra Gate and after a few yards passed through Naubatkhana or the welcome gate. The road further up used to be the bazaar street after which one sees an old structure to the right which used to be the Mint for the empire.
Diwane-aam is the first enclosure of the palace, a huge courtyard with the king’s seat with long arcades on its two sides and massive lawns in front. The place was used for daily public hearing and passing judgement.
Diwane-Khaas is in the next enclosure with a large quadrangle to hold all major royal functions. In the north corner of this enclosure is a small hall, Diwane-Khaas, very unique in structure with a central thick pillar being supported by cross-bridges reaching to four corners. Akbar used to sit atop this structure in the centre and his ministers were seated in the balcony for debates. The whole structure has strangely designed carvings hanging like grapes. The pillar is rich in Hindu and Islamic motifs.
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| The Central Pivot at Diwane Khaas |
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| Panch Mahal |
Panch Mahal: This is a five storied structure built with pillars and arches. It tapers at the top to a single platform under an umbrella. The place should best be called as Hawa Mahal because of the presence of the cross ventilation from all sides. The large open platform surrounded by a large water body is the historical place where great legends like Tansen and Baiju Bawra used to perform. The open courtyard is called Pachisi court as there is a cruciform board designed on the floor which was used to play Pachisi, a game very similar to chess. It is said that Akbar used humans as pawns to play this game.
Baodi: It is a small water reservoir now, which was earlier a group of wells with stone steps around and a cool room above.
Hiran Minar: Standing near the Baodi, one can see a thick and tall minar called the Hiran Minar, at a far distance. The in- between place had Caravans’Iinn. The minar was built as a light- house to show way to the travellers at night. One can see a large number of nail-like structures protruding out of its walls. These are elephant tusks used in the design to commemorate the King’s favourite elephant Hiran, which is said to lie buried there. The tusks were used as pegs to hang lamps.
Mariam House: The palace of Empress Mariam is a small but beautiful place with a Sheesh Mahal inside and the arched corridors outside with very fine carving all over.
Jodha Bai’s Palace: This is the main palace where the king and the queen lived. Jodha Bai was the most favoured of the three queens as she bore an heir to the king. There is a separate vegetarian kitchen for her. The whole place is built in Persian style with pillars, beams and broad eaves. The living area was one floor above. In the king’s room, there is a huge stone bed mounted on high pillars. Looking at the size of the bed, I realised where the term King-size bed came from. A step-ladder was placed for the king to climb up and down the bed. Underneath this bed flowed water to keep the room cool. This room had direct access to the queen’s room and to Birbal’s palace behind.
One has to go further up to reach the Mosque Quarter, the area of worship. Before the Mosque, there are pay per use washrooms and public utilities.
You will notice in my album below, the prominence given to my daughter along with the monuments. This was because of the young guide’s amusing fascination for my daughter, who was otherwise a well- behaved and well-informed fellow and stayed within decent limits. He kept on almost snatching the camera from my hand to click pictures of the monuments with her in focus and in bargain he didn’t try to finish the tour in a hurry and also took pictures from some specific points, we would not have known, to get amazing special effects. (Plz see album below)
Mosque Quarter—(16th C)
We entered the large mosque quarter through Badshahi Darwaza, which Akbar used. This is built opposite the Hujra or Jami Masjid also known as The Friday Mosque. Badshahi Darwaza is grand in style crowned with chhatris. There is an open courtyard in the centre with Buland Darwaza on the north side and two mausoleums on the south. This mosque served as the model for Jama Masjid in Delhi.
Jami Musjid is a beautifully built mosque with the main wall decorated with inlaid coloured stones.
Tomb of Islam Khan, the grave of Sufi Saint Islam Khan, is made entirely of red sand stone.
Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti- This tomb is built in red sandstone and marble. It has very detailed work on pillars and very attractive lattice work on the outer walls surrounding the tomb. Akbar had it built as gratitude to the saint after the birth of prince Salim.
Buland Darwaza is a 54-m high gate built to celebrate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat. A large number of steps outside are built to reach the gate. It is a fine example of red and yellow stone and marble architecture.
We came back at the base where we had left our vehicle and had cold drinks and light snacks from a shop there at Gulistan Guide Centre and moved on to go to Sikandara, our next destination.
In the beginning of the 17th century Sikandara was the capital of Lodi Dynasty. Today it is known for being the resting place for Akbar. It is situated 10Km north of Agra. Akbar had himself ordered the building of his tomb here when he was alive. The mausoleum lies symmetrically in the centre of a massive square garden which could be entered from all four sides through tall, 2-storey beautiful gates on all four sides. Each gate itself is a miniature monument as it is magnificent in look with minarets on each corner and a group of chhatris at the top.
The main tomb inside is a clear example of Akbar’s taste for using Indo-Islamic styles and use of red stone in the building of pillars. The tomb is a large, 3-storey high building with 10 modules on the top. Each module is a chhatri made over four pillars. The top of the tomb is a courtyard with Akbar’s cenotaph at the centre surrounded by marble arcades on its four sides. It is a unique tomb structure by the absence of a dome and the presence of the chhatris on different levels giving it a perfect look of fantasy world. The actual coffin of Akbar lies in an undecorated tomb in the very quiet basement. The gate that goes down to the basement is a very high vestibule decorated with coloured tiles and filigree work. The outer most walls have one of the best stone inlay work.
We concluded our first day’s journey here and drove back to our hotel in Agra for good rest and food which we needed badly.
Agra
The second day of our tour started late as I got some stomach infection and became really sick. At one stage it seemed that we will have to stay back in the hotel and leave Agra without seeing Taj Mahal. But after medication and some rest, I felt that the Taj Mahal could not be missed. As we moved on, I got better and we were able to see Agra Fort as well. There were a few more places on my itinerary which had to be abandoned because of the circumstances.
Taj Mahal- One has to buy entry ticket from the office which is situated about half-a kilometre before the Taj –site and any personal vehicles cannot be taken beyond this point. Alternatively, Govt.-run CNG buses and auto-rickshaws are available to reach there. At the entrance, there was thorough frisking and we were not allowed to carry anything inside except drinking water, camera and valet etc in my bag. At this point, we were miffed a bit, as we felt that if this instruction was given at the booking office itself, we could have left the other stuff in our vehicle. And to our surprise and discomfort, the security checkers routinely told us to leave our other belongings with one of the shop-keepers there.
My suggestion- It is better if one carries a pair of thick cotton socks or Turkish slippers to wear, as one has to remove footwear and the floor outside becomes burning hot during summers.
The huge entrance gate to the Taj resembles strikingly to the gate at Sikandra Tomb and Humayun’s tomb in Delhi in architecture and style. As we passed through this gate, a very expansive and well cared garden welcomed us. Every part of the compound is planned with exact symmetry. As we reached the second gate after the garden, it slowly unveiled the timeless, unmatched beauty in front of our eyes and we became completely speechless at the sight. There was complete silence in spite of the presence of hundreds of tourists and the only sounds of exclamation I could hear, were the words like,` Wah’, `Oh my God’ or` Sooo beautiful’ being whispered there in all amazement. Even today when I remember that moment, I go into some magical trance and stop thinking about everything else. So many questions come to my mind, like, how in that age and time when advanced machines and engineering tools were not available, was it possible to carry out such massive yet perfect project? Or how would Shah Jahan have visioned this structure and explained it to the architects and the artists? I think these questions are best to be left unanswered as it only augments the mystery behind the beauty of the Taj.
I will not go into any history and facts behind construction of Taj as those are best explained there on the site itself and can be read from the picture-album.
I feel, the Murphy’s Law was at its best (or should I say at its worst?) during my Agra trip and anything which could have gone wrong, went wrong. After inundating rains the previous day and my illness on that morning, it was my camera which suddenly developed some snag and stopped working while I was still there at the Taj Mahal and was crazily trying to capture the beauty of the place from every possible angle. Let me share this that while travelling, rendering my camera functionless is like taking my breath away. My camera becomes my virtual eye at such places. But nothing could be done now…
Our next step was to go to the hotel to get some much needed lunch and rest.
Post lunch, we had limited time and could see Agra fort only. On our way to Agra Fort, we searched a photo studio in the city market to show our camera and got it repaired. A button was pressed accidently which had rendered the camera settings non-functional. What a silly mistake! Ha, THANK GOD!
Agra Fort: Agra fort was built about a century before Taj Mahal by Akbar. It is built in red and brown stone and is said to have inspired Akbar to build the Red Fort in Delhi. It is a very huge, well-fortified fort which has some amazingly beautiful regal structures. We reached the interior of the fort after walking up a winding pathway and passing through a number of forbidding gates. Inside, the fort offers usual regal structures made of marble and red stone. These are, Jahangir Mahal, Jodha Bai’s Palace, Sheesh mahal- the dressing room for Akbar’s harem, Princesses’ resting palaces, Muthamman Burj, Diwane Aam, Diwane Khaas, Mina Musjid and Nagina Musjid and Moti Musjid.
It is said that Shahjahan spent the last nine years of his life imprisoned in Muthaman Burj by gazing at Taj Mahal from a window. All the structures are grand and have a number of tales to tell about the times and lives of the royals. Nagina Mosque is a beautiful white marble structure connected to Moti Musjid through long marble arcades. Moti musjid is a massive complex structure with its domes of perfect pearl shapes, hence its name Moti (pearl) Musjid.
We returned to our hotel after seeing the fort to pack our luggage as it was time to leave. The other places worth seeing and we had to give a miss to, are, Chini Ka Rauza, Mehtab Bagh, Itimadud Daula’a Tomb (called baby Taj) and Mariam’s Tomb.
Agra city is a shoppers’ delight and one can go for marble sculptures, leather goods, carpets, embroidery works, metal crafts and textiles.
Agra is famous for its sweet `Petha’ made from white pumpkin and sugar and the savoury `dalmoth’ is available everywhere in Agra from railway station, bus-stops, sweet shops and on hand-carts at hawkers. Gorge yourself on the stuff while in Agra and also carry it to relish later as it stays fresh for many weeks.
